a far cry from hrishikesh, haridwar had hardly any international tourists when we were there. instead it was thronging with pilgrims living in the dharamshalas along the main road. some of these dharamshalas were stunning works of architecture with decorative facade referring to the places that their sponsors were from and raised courtyards wound which the rooms clustered. we missed the aarti both times at har ki pauri where men braved each other to swim across the narrow pass created by the building of the island for pilgrims with the clock tower in the middle. none of the temples seemed particularly ancient as they had each been added to innumerably over the years, but the city was throbbing with activity in the evening and in the morning.
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